Thursday, February 7, 2008

Photo Highlights

As promised, here are some photos from our trip. Sort of a 'best of' photo collection here out of almost 300 pictures we took during our trip.

Messing around at an amusement park (Nha Trang)...


We saw some crazy animals throughout our trip. Like this peacock in Nha Trang...


And these Vietnamese pot bellied pigs in Sa Pa...


The water was warm and crystal clear and very salty (Nha Trang)...


The city streets are busy (Hanoi)...


Think you can navigate through this?


We went to this place to see a dead guy (Ho Chi Minh mausoleum in Hanoi)...


It was so foggy in Sa Pa, you could barely see the terraced rice fields...


These young girls made handicrafts high in the mountains of Sa Pa...


My dad likes to mess with people and animals. Like this goat (Sa Pa)...


Joe and I just mess with fake animals (Halong Bay)...


Halong Bay is a registered World Heritage site. Indeed it is majestic...



My favorite photo taken in Sa Pa during one of the walking tours. That's Joe walking into the fog...

Monday, February 4, 2008

Home!

Our flight was delayed from Chicago to Harrisburg, but we still got home on Sunday by noon or so. It was disappointing, I had my day planned out to be a day for rest and re-balancing my internal clock. But since we were still in travel mode, we didn't really get any time to rest.

Even coming home has been an adjustment. Since the house is so new to us, we weren't immediately calmed when we got home. I'm sure we'll get our bearings straight in a few more days.

I will be spending some time this week sorting through the pictures we've taken during our trip and maybe post some highlights. I hope you guys are still interested in checking them out.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Insomnia

I wasn't able to sleep all night. My mind is racing. I don't know if I can't sleep because of the time difference, because I already slept on the plane from Hong Kong or if I'm just really really anxious to get home.
We are already back at O'Hare waiting for our flight. We're just sitting here waiting and using our phones to catch up on news and stuff. Hopefully we'll be home soon.
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What would Uncle Ho do?

Ho Chi Minh is a national hero here and people still call him uncle. We went to see his body at the mausoleum in Hanoi. Joe thought that was pretty creepy.
He's the guy responsible for bringing communism to Vietnam. You can often see Uncle Ho iconography around the city.
We were kind of scared ahead of our trip. Phrases like arbitrary interrogation made us want to stay home. But in reality, all I think communism is responsible for is lack of progress. Construction is slow, we have seen half complete bridges where it looked like no one has worked for days. People still use hand tools, although we have seen machine tools though few. Social problems are the same they just present themselves in a different way.
Just slow slow progress yet I'm sure each year it becomes more Americanized and tourist friendly.
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Saturday, February 2, 2008

I'm ready to go home

Joe can't wait to be home to have some pizza. I am craving cold drinks and ice cubes. I am not going to miss the mosquitoes here. I got bitten all over my arms and legs. We won't miss the insane traffic and noise. We are ready to come home!
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Stuck in Chicago!

Our flight out of Hong Kong was delayed 4 hours, which made us miss our flight to Baltimore. So many problems with the airline that we are stuck in Chicago for the night. We hopefully catch a flight to Harrisburg in the morning in time to catch the Superbowl.
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A frog, a squid, an eel, a turtle and ALMOST a snake

Aside from Nha Trang, we ate some different things during our trip. Our first day here Joe ordered frog satay and I had a hunch then that we would be eating some exciting things.
Clams at Halong Bay that aren't available at home. Squid that was a lot thicker than anything I've ever had before. And ... A turtle. I wanted to try turtle just to try it and know what it was all about. I got to pick him out of the tank and everything. i was excited and then when it came to the table I felt bad. And then when I saw the head and feet I got scared. But both Joe and I ate it, thought it was pretty good although it leaves a sticky aftertaste in your mouth. Joe made me have the head since I was responsible for the poor guy's death.
And then there's the snake. Our last night here and my dad took us to a place where we could order the scary stuff. This is the same place we had turtle. I had wanted to also try snake (why not, right?) and had one brought out in a bag and weighed and everything. But my dad was scared of snake, my dad had already ordered 4 other things and the dinner was getting expensive. The waitstaff told us we would never be able to eat it all. So the snake was spared from the Sophie guillotine. I was willing to try it once and know what the fuss was all about. You can't say I'm a picky eater.
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Patriarch in Ben Tre

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Return to the fatherland

We took a 3 hour drive out of saigon to my dad's hometown, Ben Tre. We had to ferry the taxi twice over two different rivers to get there. We thought maybe the driver would wonder what he got himself into.
Once we got to Ben Tre, my dad picked up 2 gift baskets and headed toward his childhood home. It is typical for a house to pass from generation to generation. My grandfather's oldest brother is the current owner of the Le house. And his children and nieces and nephews own the houses next door and across the street. The houses were simple, nicer than I expected though. I thought we would be dealing with dirt floors. The houses are surrounded by coconut and durian trees and pineapple bushes. They had 2 dogs and a teeny tiny little kitten that kept jumping on the table as we shared a meal.
All the distant family members were excited to see me. They would put their hands on my shoulders, squeeze my arms and face as if to size me up. They did the same with Joe, shaking his hand and remarking on his height.
We dropped off the baskets and all the things we brought with us from home- Hershey's chocolates, Dove soap, Starburst candy. We shared a meal, met all the relatives, spent some time and then headed back to the city. It was probably the most interesting day of our trip.
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Preparing for the new year

The city streets are already preparing for the new year. Dried fruit is neatly displayed and boxed cookies and biscuits line the walls of each stall in Hanoi and saigon.
Typically families make gift baskets of dried fruit, candy, tea, or liquor to give to their elders or to dead relatives. You can also buy pre-made baskets, like the ones pictured here.

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my dad is all about 3 things

1. Bonsai
2. Orchids
3. Tiger teeth
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Disappointment in nha trang

We spent 3 days in nha trang, a supposed beach town, but we were unfortunate suckers that booked whole day tours and only were allowed 2 hours at the beach. Instead they took us to creepy deserted amusement parks that were still in construction. And we spent so much time on the bus, we became very annoyed.
It's a shame nha trang is commercialized (or at least a poor attempt). They have very very nice beaches. The day tours left a bad taste in our mouth. We were actually happy to go back to the city.
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Saturday, January 26, 2008

The Prices Are a Little Bit Sweatshoppy

Things here are cheap. I kind of feel bad about haggling prices, but that's how the people here actually prefer it. Joe likes to compare prices in terms of beers here, "that costs 2 beers!". Heineken is somewhere between 15,000-20,000 dong. Around one dollar!

You can haggle the price for anything and everything. Anything put out on the street for purchase can be haggled as well as a taxi ride. Today I paid full price for a t-shirt and it was only 30,000 dong. My dad gave me 1,000,000 dong at the beginning of the trip and I still have over half of it. You can eat like royalty here, and pretty much get whatever you want at the price you want. It's a rather kooky idea, I just can't get used to.

I'm trying to keep my eyes peeled for nice gifts to bring back, but it's kind of hard to distinguish the nice stuff from knock-offs. My dad tells me that nice stuff is usually exported to other countries and they keep the chintzy stuff for themselves to sell here. So, I'll have to apologize ahead of time for some of my crappy purchases.

1 USD = 16,000 VND

Can You Tell Me Where Platform Nine and Three Quarters Is?

We made it back from Sapa early this morning. It's nice to finally get out of the damp cold. We took 2 walking tours during our stay, visiting the local tribes and seeing the way they live. I was looking for some souvenirs of our stay and ended up buying the head scarves straight off the girls' heads. We also walked upwards towards a peak where we would have an opportunity for some great landscape photos, but it is so foggy in Sa Pa, we have to settle for postcards.

Joe felt ill the second day there. Upset stomach, nausea, loss of appetite. We agree it wasn't the food because we've been eating the same things and I feel fine, myself. So he must be homesick for warm, dry weather and a shower that he can fit in. Also, he's been so paranoid that the food will make him sick, I think the paranoia has worn him out. He feels better today but very tired and weak since he hadn't eaten all day yesterday.

The train ride in and out of Sa Pa was interesting. Too bad we travelled at night and couldn't really see the countryside. But the ride was something different. It wasn't one of those Amtrak trains. The train we rode in was one of those old timey trains with compartments and a beverage cart. I had a feeling the railway system is government owned, as the carriages (and especially the bathrooms) were a little bit scary and old.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Sa Pa

Two Christmases ago, Joe and I ate a Vietnamese-French fusion restaurant in NYC with my friend Dan.  The place was called Sapa.  What I didn't know was that it was named after our next destination. 
 
Sa Pa is a mountainous town, an 8 hour train ride and a 1 hour bus ride away from Hanoi.  The people here look like Eskimo/ Inuit versions of Vietnamese people, with high cheek bones and different clothing.  It's mostly an agricultural area, we'll soon find out what exactly they farm here.  Surprisingly, they run electricity all the way up here.  The mountains are really steep and on the way here the fog was thick.  I had slight reservations that the bus driver couldn't see the road, but figured he had driven in these conditions many times before, there really shouldn't be too much to worry about.  Once we got higher in elevation, the fog started to lift and we discovered we were high in the mountains.  It looked so awesome.  I will be sure to take lots of pictures to share.
 
We've lost track of time here, we just figured out that it's already Thursday.  It seems as though only 2 long days have past in real time though.  We travel at night and sight-see during the day and it seems like we eat every few hours.  My dad always wants to stop for a meal, but we feel like we are overfed.
 
The weather in the north is cold and rainy.  Probably temps in the 40's during the day and night.  No one here uses heat, rooms have a/c units and we just turn them up as high as they'll go.  We're anxious to return to the south where it was warm and humid. 
 
Sa Pa is around 22 degrees north, the most north we'll go.  Ho Chi Minh is around 10.5 degrees north, the most south we'll be.


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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Notes from Joe: Ha Long

Wow that bus ride was horrible!

We almost hit a truck or should I say the truck almost hit us. Not really sure who would be at fault since neither vehicle slowed down and both were over the middle line, which really means nothing here. It's actually a common occurrence for vehicles to have near misses in this country. It's like everyone is playing a giant game of chicken. Sophie's dad explained to me that the people think it is lucky to come so close to an accident but not actually have one. This was just after our boat passed very close to another boat in the bay.

So Ha long is a quickly growing resort type town in the north. The bay is awesome. If you want to see some pictures you can easily find them online. This computer is slow or else I would have included a link. After arriving in town our tour guide took us on a boat. Our group was not even ten and the boat had lots of room for walking about. In the pictures you will probably see the type of boat we rode. The boat people are very nice. Most of them are owner operators and actually live on the boats.

We took a 3 hour tour, a three hour tour. The bay is full of islands (you should really look at some pics to see what I am talking about). We stopped for lunch at a floating fish store where you can choose your lunch. And then the boat owner cooks what you buy. They actually prepared a lunch for us and we bought extra. In addition to a traditional lunch we had clams fresh out of the bay. The were really salty and Sophie found 6 pearls in one! They were small but I kept them anyway, a great souvenir. After lunch we kept moving through the islands and the tour guide got really excited about the "fighting cock" rock formation. We took a bunch of pics. Then we stopped for a cave tour. On one of the larger islands a cave was discovered in 1993. I'm not sure why it took so long for them to find it but it was huge. Maybe three times the size of Indian Echo. We took more pics. After the cave we headed back to the dock and the mood on the boat was relaxed. The owners were playing cards and had invited other boat people on for a game. It was great to see the culture of this place and get away from the traffic and noise of the city.

Oh yeah, I saw a monkey! A real monkey, not in a cage or anything. I'm not sure how the monkeys got on the islands but they are there. The tour guide said in the summer the monkeys come into the cave (where it is cool). The monkeys knew about the cave long before the people. I would have liked to have seen more but I think they know to stay away from people, or else they might get eaten.

Tomorrow we head back to Hanoi in the afternoon and will take an overnight train to Sapa, a religious locale where trekking is a very popular tourist activity. Since I won't be around a computer for several days you won't hear from us, so don't worry we are doing well. The food has been good although at the stop during the bus ride dad made us eat some questionable food. I only ate the hot soup, hopefully it won't come back to haunt me. I have a feeling accommodations will be less than luxurious in Sapa.

I'm going to end my message here but, if you want you can keep reading Mom. No really stop reading now. Everything is fine. If you really want to hear about the Vietnamese you can continue but I strongly urge you not to.

I'll write back in a few days if we come across another internet cafe.

Joe and Sophie








Alright so now that Mom is gone...

On the bus ride down we kept seeing signs for dog. Not like to buy puppies. You can eat dog meat if you want. They even make Dog Pho (noodle soup). I haven't seen many dogs here until today. But as we traveled out of the city limits most people had some dogs running around. Mostly mutts but we saw some great looking German Shepards. I'm not sure if they prefer one kind of dog over another but most of the dogs were of medium build with lots of muscle. I have heard the meat is sweet but I really don't care to eat it and I feel awful every time I see a dog now. Today on the fish market boat they had 4 dogs in a small crate. I'm going to assume they were for meat.

Notes from Joe: Greetings from Hanoi

Tuesday 1/22/08 8:00 am local time Hanoi.

Hey everyone just dropping a line since we have some down time beore the bus takes us to our boat tour. Yesterday was good weather in Ho Chi Minh (80's and sunny). We ate at a nice restaurant in dowtown and had a great seat by the window where we could watch the traffic. Everyone rides scooters and they drive all over the plae wihtout regard for posted signs. The assortment of scooters is amazing an we both agreed we could sit for hours watching the traffic. We saw several people driving with young children on their laps or loaded down with water cooler bottles. It is not uncommon for women to drive with men on the backseat. And some guys ride pink scooters with pink helmets (the helmet law was recently passed with steep fines for anyone caught without one). Police presence is light, I saw maybe three all day. You must be 18 years old to drive but underage drivers cover their faces with masks to avoid the law. The traffic noise rivals New York except the horns are higher pitch. Most people use horns constantly, like the taxi driver we had last night.

Early last night we flew north to Hanoi after spending the day in the Ho Chi Minh. We stayed in "Old Saigon" where the streets narrow and winding. It kind of reminds me of SoHo in New York except much more poor. The weather here is markedly cooler in th 50's. It has been overcast and damp since we arrived. Today we are going to travel to the coast by bus and take a boat tour. I can't wait to get out of the city and hopefully get some quiet.

That's all for now our bus is scheduled to arrive any minute.

Hope you are all doing well!

Joe and Sophie

Monday, January 21, 2008

The Traffic is C-R-A-Z-Y

The traffic in the city is chaotic at best. Most people here drive scooters or mopeds of every variety. And recent laws passed that require riders to wear helmets. So it looks like no 2 riders are the same.

There are no lanes and few traffic signals. So everyone has the right-of-way. People here constantly honk either for no reason or to let others aware of your existence on the road. The honking is constant, and that's an understatement.

Crossing the street is a lot like taking a few steps and then waiting for scooters to pass. Then taking a few more steps in the road and waiting for more scooters. Repeat until you reach the curb.

The weather in Ho Chi Minh City was hot and humid. We flew into Hanoi (in the north) last night and it's cold and rainy here. It's currently 8 in the morning on Tuesday and we are waiting to get picked up to start our guided tours.

Unfortunately, since we can't get my phone to work here, I'll be posting just from internet cafes as they become available. And no photos for now. We'll share them with you when we return.

We're Here

Hey Everyone
I'm using the hotel computer cafe because we haven't been able to find a SIM card that will work on my phone.
We made it Ho Chi Minh City on Sunday evening after a very long trip. We were tired and felt awful after all those airplane meals. My dad and Joe had little sleep the whole plane ride, so they had been awake essentially since Friday. I am fortunately gifted with the ability to sleep in any moving vehicle in the sitting position. But we got a hot shower and a good night's sleep.

Vietnam is 12 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. And the current exchange rate is USD 1= VND 15,978. We've just been rounding to 16,000 to make the math a little easier.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Departure

We just boarded the plane for Hong Kong and discovered we got good seats, right behind first class!

This will be the last post until we reach our destination. And there will be a delay until we find phone service over there that supports mobile blogging. So we will hopefully talk to you soon.
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We're missing some games

Can someone tell us who won the games today? It's going to be packers vs pats, isn't it?
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We saw the Rockies flying to LA

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Friday, January 18, 2008

i'm gonna miss you, pizza!

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Snakes on a plane

----- Original Message -----
Subject:msnbc.com: A ton of rat snakes found on Vietnam Air flight
Date:Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:27:22
From:Le, Sophia H <SLe@sovereignbank.com>
To: <elsihope@yahoo.com>

A
ton of rat snakes found on Vietnam Air flight
Vietnam
has seized more than a ton of rat snakes found aboard a Vietnam Airlines flight
from Bangkok, the second time in about a month such snakes were found in air
cargo to Vietnam, state media said on Friday.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/22730900/from/ET/


This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail, and delete or destroy the message. Thank you.


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Thursday, January 17, 2008

Preparations

We've had to get quite a few vaccinations ahead of this trip. My regular doctor was willing to do the research and give me the necessary vaccinations (minus the ones they don't stock or are not trained to give). But Joe was referred to the Travel Clinic (there's one near Fuddruckers on Market St.). The travel clinic doesn't take insurance and you have to pay a $60 fee for the visit plus the cost of the vaccinations. The doctor researches the area you are visiting and then makes recommendations on the vaccinations you will need.

This is what was recommended for us:
-Get up-to-date on routine shots (MMR, DPT, you remember those right?)
-Hepatitis A ($62) and Hepatitis B
-Polio ($35)
-Typhoid ($58)
-A prescription for Cipro for travelers' diarrhea
-A prescription to prevent malaria

A word about the malaria...
We were both originally prescribed a drug called malarone for malaria, but when we went to the pharmacy to fill it, we discovered it would cost us $125 each. Joe just happened to know that doxycycline is also an acceptable anti-malarial from when he had to take it for his Lyme Disease in the summer (thank god for reading those pamphlets). It cost him $12 then, he knew it would be cheaper than $125 now.

We had to go back to the doctor's office for a new prescription, because there was no way we were going to pay that much when we knew there was a cheaper alternative. It turns out the prescription for doxycycline cost us around $4 each. $4!!!

I'm not about to start a conversation here about the pharmaceutical business, but...$4!!!! You can be malaria-free for $125 or you can be malaria-free for $4.

I'm just saying....

Monday, January 14, 2008

In the Meantime...

We finished painting our living room.

Before...






After...






The furniture is still askew, but we're getting there.

Monday, January 7, 2008

I hope this works!

Well I'm going to try to blog from the road with this. I hope it works. If you don't see any messages after Jan 20th, then sorry it was worth a try. But if you do see some thing then you can keep track of our whereabouts during our trip.
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